history
The History of the Fendi Baguette: Design and Origins
By The Luxury Verdict Editorial Team · November 1, 2026
The Fendi Baguette has become a cultural touchstone, yet its story began long before the iconic “It’s a Baguette!” line on Sex and the City. By the end of this article you will know who created the bag and why, understand the bread-inspired name and under-arm silhouette, see what the original 1997 versions looked like, learn the meaning of the signature FF Zucca clasp, learn when the television moment aired, and trace how the design has been reinterpreted since its 2019 relaunch. All of this is drawn from museum archives and fashion journalism, so you can follow the bag’s evolution step by step.
Key takeaways
- Designed by Silvia Venturini Fendi, the bag debuted in 1997 under Karl Lagerfeld’s artistic direction4.
- Its name comes from the way Parisians carry real baguettes under the arm, a gesture the designer translated into a compact, under-arm handbag1.
- The original piece featured a single short strap, a small “tuck-under-the-arm” size, and the inverted double-F Zucca clasp introduced in 19651.
- A cult moment arrived in the October 2000 episode of Sex and the City, where Carrie Bradshaw identified the bag during a mugging scene1.
- After a quiet early period, the bag was celebrated with a 2012 Colette exhibition and Rizzoli book, fell out of favor in the early 2010s, and was relaunched in 2019 with new sizes, scents and a men’s version).
- More than 1,000 unique versions now exist, including a 2026 rework by Maria Grazia Chiuri that added sequins, mirrored embroidery and calf-hair details2.
Origin and Designer
The story of the Baguette begins in the late 1990s, a decade dominated by minimalist, utilitarian totes such as the nylon Prada backpack. Silvia Venturini Fendi, granddaughter of house founders Adele and Edoardo Fendi, was asked to create a functional tote that could compete with that trend. Instead of echoing the oversized, streamlined silhouettes of the era, she answered with a deliberately opposite aesthetic: a compact, highly decorative bag meant to be carried under the arm2. The National Gallery of Victoria confirms that the Baguette was first produced in 1997 and that Venturini Fendi was the creative force behind its design1.
Naming and Silhouette
The bag’s moniker is a direct reference to French street culture. Venturini Fendi observed Parisians, particularly French girls, tucking freshly bought baguettes under their arms, a gesture that inspired both the shape and the name of the bag1. The design translates that everyday act into fashion: a single short shoulder strap and a small, rectangular body that slides neatly beneath the arm, freeing the wearer’s hands for daily activities or evening events12. This “under-the-arm” silhouette was a clear departure from the large, shoulder-driven totes that dominated the market, positioning the Baguette as a statement piece that could transition from day to night.
Early Aesthetic and Materials
From its runway debut in the autumn/winter 1997 show, the Baguette was presented in a magpie-like range of finishes, from textured wool to sequins, leather and printed canvas, drawn from her grandmother’s 1920s and 1930s bag collection4. The bag’s hardware is equally symbolic: the clasp bears Fendi’s inverted double-F Zucca monogram, a pattern introduced by Karl Lagerfeld in 1965 that originally stood for “fun fur” and paid homage to the house’s origins as a fur and leather workshop founded in 19251. The first launch colors were modest, black and brown bodies paired with gold and red straps, but the bag was not an immediate commercial hit, despite its distinctive look2.
Pre-Fame Years and the Sex and the City Moment
For roughly three years after its debut, the Baguette remained a niche accessory, carried only by a handful of forward-looking fashion enthusiasts while many within Fendi were skeptical of its commercial viability4. The turning point arrived in October 2000, when the bag featured prominently in a season-three episode of Sex and the City. In the now-famous mugging scene, Carrie Bradshaw, played by Sarah Jessica Parker, identifies the bag with the line “It’s a Baguette!” This moment transformed the accessory into a cult object and cemented its place in pop culture1. According to Wikipedia, Fendi was the first luxury house to lend the bag to the show’s costume designer Patricia Field, and Parker later remarked that the Baguette’s appearance marked the start of everything for the series).
Milestones After the Television Boost
The Sex and the City exposure turned the bag into a cult object; its popularity later fell out of favour in the early 2010s before returning around 2019. In 2012, Fendi celebrated the bag’s 15th anniversary with an exhibition at the Colette boutique in Paris and a comprehensive Rizzoli book edited by Venturini Fendi, showcasing over 1,000 original creations. The early 2010s saw a decline in popularity as oversized totes reclaimed dominance, and in 2015 Rihanna and Sarah Jessica Parker designed Baguettes for a charity auction.
A full revival arrived in 2019 when Fendi relaunched the Baguette, still under the creative direction of its original designer. The new release introduced scented versions created with perfumer Francis Kurkdjian, a men’s Baguette, and an expanded size range that included Nano, Mini, Medium, Large and the larger “Mama” Baguette, each featuring a removable top handle and detachable shoulder strap)5.
Evolution Since the 2019 Relaunch
Since the 2019 reissue, the Baguette has been continuously reinterpreted. Maria Grazia Chiuri, Fendi’s chief creative officer, presented a fresh take in February 2026, incorporating sequins, mirrored embroidery and calf-hair accents into the classic shape. This iteration contributed to the ever-growing catalogue of more than 1,000 unique Baguette versions that now exist across materials such as laser-printed canvas, raffia, hand-painted details and intricate embroidery2. The addition of removable hardware, both the top handle and shoulder strap, has made the bag more versatile, allowing wearers to switch between a clutch-like silhouette and a shoulder-carried accessory. The scent-infused version further blurs the line between fashion and fragrance, demonstrating how the original concept of a compact, sensory-rich object continues to inspire contemporary iterations.
Frequently Asked Questions
Who designed the Fendi Baguette and when?
Silvia Venturini Fendi, granddaughter of founders Adele and Edoardo Fendi, designed the bag, which was first produced in 19971.
Why is it called the Baguette?
The name reflects the designer’s observation of French women carrying actual baguettes under their arms; the bag’s shape and under-arm strap echo that everyday gesture1.
What did the Baguette look like before Sex and the City?
Early versions were small, with a single short strap, and came in a wide array of finishes, textured wool, sequins, leather and printed canvas. The hardware featured the inverted double-F Zucca clasp, and the launch colors were black and brown bodies with gold and red straps42.
What does the FF Zucca clasp mean?
The clasp displays Fendi’s inverted double-F Zucca monogram, a pattern introduced by Karl Lagerfeld in 1965. The “FF” originally stood for “fun fur,” nodding to Fendi’s roots as a fur and leather workshop founded in 19251.
When did the Sex and the City mugging scene air?
The episode featuring Carrie Bradshaw’s “It’s a Baguette!” line aired in October 20001.
How has the Baguette changed since the 2019 reissue?
The 2019 relaunch added multiple sizes, from Nano to the larger “Mama” Baguette, along with removable top handles and shoulder straps. New variations include a scent-infused version created with perfumer Francis Kurkdjian, a men’s model, and experimental materials such as laser-printed canvas and hand-painted embroidery. In 2026, Maria Grazia Chiuri introduced a rework featuring sequins, mirrored embroidery and calf-hair detailing, further expanding the bag’s material vocabulary)52.
Closing Thoughts
From a modest, under-arm accessory conceived as a counterpoint to 1990s minimalism, the Fendi Baguette has traversed runway shows and television set pieces to become a symbol of playful luxury. Its enduring appeal lies in a clear design premise, a compact, hand-carried silhouette inspired by everyday French life, paired with a willingness to reinvent its materiality while preserving the signature Zucca clasp and under-arm functionality. Whether spotted on a 1990s runway or a 2026 runway in sequins, the bag’s DNA remains unmistakably Fendi.
